2009 is perhaps the greatest young Château Margaux we have tasted over the last 30 years. The 2009 Château Margaux is an unparalleled vintage in its tannic power and fullness (reminding us of 2005) and its softness (reminiscent of 1990). And since its alcoholic degree is barely over 13, its finish remains fresh, flavoursome and of astonishing length. When to drink it? This is a question that is difficult to answer as it already gives so much pleasure, but with such enormous potential.

The Cabernet, is both fine and dense at the same time and dominates the personality of the Château Margaux 2007. The Merlot gives full, tender and rich texture, along with the Cabernet Franc which clearly benefited from the conditions of the vintage. We can start drinking it now even if wisdom would have us wait several more years.

Deep ruby-red color is not quite opaque. The aromas are tightly wound being dusty at first over cassis, them becoming more ceadry & perhaps chalky. The palate is tight & closed at present. There is a delicate leafy cassis fruit but the wine is dominated by plentiful, fine, smooth tannins. Acidity is good alcohol is balanced & the finish has superb length. The wine's fruit is largely closed up, but its excellent balance suggests this could open spectacularly with age.

The wine is a dark, well-pigmented ruby-red in color. Cedar, coffee, tobacco & earthy notes overlay cassis fruit on the nose. The palate is very nicely together, with plentiful coffee notes overlaying black-cherry fruit Balanced acidity & slightly warming alcohol combine to give a firm, well-structured mid-palate. The finish lasts well.

A deep, dark, opaque, glass-staining wine. Restrained, composed & perfumed on the nose with black fruits, cedar, raspberries, blackberries and violets. The palate is very concentrated & extremely refined. Its fine grained tannins are tightly knit, powerful & muscular but in harmony. An outstanding wine.

Surprisingly woodsy, with truffle, cassis, earth, tobacco, cedar chest and blackberry in the developed nose. There is a nice softness to the tannins and fruit. Not yet fully mature, but quite developed for a vintage of Latour at 10 years of age, the wine offers pleasure, refined textures, balance and sweet berries in the finish. Drink now, or wait 5 years for more complexity

Medium to deep ruby red in color. Notes of graphite & chocolate dominate the dark fruit on the nose. The palate is big, rich and concentrated with lots of cassis that is lifted by good acidity. The tannins are huge with good grip, but do not quite close-up the fruit. Alcohol is balanced and the finish has good length. A big wine but with lively fruit & good equilibrium

Deep, dark, almost opaque ruby-red color with hints of purple at the rim. There are lovely licorice notes overlaying the bursting dark-fruit on the nose. The palate combines juicy dark fruit, licorice and some earthy grip. The wine has good acidity, warming alcohol & a very smooth texture on the finish. The fruit on the finish is ripe in character with black-cherry and black olive flavors.

Now benefiting from its own dedicated winery, the 2021 Le Carillon d'Angélus is no longer a "second wine" per se, but rather draws on some 25 hectares of dedicated vineyards, emphasizing Merlot from the cool terroirs of Saint-Christophe-des-Bardes, complemented by holdings in the gravelly Figeac sector and on clay soils near Angélus itself—with anything that doesn't make the cut relegated to the No. 3 d'Angélus. Exhibiting aromas of raspberries, plums, warm spices and nicely integrated new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and polished, with lively acids, refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish. - William Kelley, Wine Advocate

A wine that transcends the vintage's challenges, the 2021 Figeac is performing brilliantly in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries and cherries mingled with striking top notes of violet, rose petal, iris and mint. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and suave, it's pure and vibrant, its enveloping core of fruit framed by ultra-refined tannins, concluding with a long, floral finish. Readers in the habit of drinking top grand cru Burgundy are liable to find themselves seduced by this immensely elegant, perfumed Saint-Émilion, a wine I'll definitely be adding to my own cellar. It's the result of gamble that paid off, as Figeac's team chose to wait to pick their Cabernet Sauvignon despite the menace of forecast rain—a menace that, in fact, scarcely transpired. The 2021 saw a somewhat shorter-than-usual élevage of 16 months in barrel without fining. Drink 2027-2050.

Offering up wild, exotic aromas of blackberries, cloves and Indian spices mingled with notions of rose petal, bruised orchard fruit and cherry pit that evolve rapidly in the glass, the 2021 Pontet-Canet is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a layered mid-palate and refined tannins that assert themselves on the firm, saline finish. Always one of the Médoc's most singular, idiosyncratic wines, it will be interesting to see how it performs in bottle.

The 2021 Pichon-Longueville Baron is showing very well in bottle, unwinding in the glass with notes of cassis, sweet berries and violets mingled with subtle hints of orange zest and cigar wrapper. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with good depth at the core, bright acids and sweet tannins that assert themselves on the gently structured finish, its serious, slightly reserved profile reflects the unusually high (89%) percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2021 concluded its élevage in large wooden vats for a month and a half, saw a touch less racking than normal, and was only fined with a small amount of gelatin, not egg white, as has been the rule at this address for several years now. Drink 2030-2060.

The remarkable 2021 Montrose gets my nomination for the title of "wine of the vintage" in the Médoc. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis and dark berries mingled with subtle hints of mint, orange, pencil shavings and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered and multidimensional core of fruit underpinned by beautifully ripe, refined tannins. Concluding with a long, resonant finish, it entirely transcends the limitations of the year. This young classic, reminiscent of the estate's 1996 but far better, is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Drink 2031-2065.

The purity of fruit here is terrific, with redcurrants, blackcurrants, licorice, lead pencil and hints of fresh basil—so aromatic—that follow through to a full body with creamy, round tannins and lots of volume and fluidity in the center-palate for the vintage. Very structured at the end. 87% cabernet sauvignon, 8% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. Leave this for at least five or six years. Try after 2030.

The 2021 Léoville Las Cases has turned out beautifully in bottle and clearly numbers among the very finest wines of the vintage. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries and cassis mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, violets and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated with a deep and multidimensional core of fruit framed by beautifully refined tannins and girdled by lively acids, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. Serious and structured without being austere, it's a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and a mere 5% Merlot. Drink 2031-2065.

Polished and refined with a firm, fine and linear tannin structure. Harmonious. Perfumed violets, roses and subtle licorice. All in balance here, with precise layers of black fruit, minerals and pencil lead. Rather seamless. Firm, yet fine and sleek to the end. Very classy. Fine-velvet texture. 96% cabernet sauvignon, 3% merlot and 1% petit verdot.

The 2021 Gruaud Larose has turned out very nicely in bottle, unfurling in the glass with aromas of sweet wild berries, plums, violets and cigar wrapper. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and velvety, it's polished and seamless, with good depth at the core, supple tannins and lively acids. Drink 2025-2045.

The 2021 Duhart-Milon has turned out beautifully, offering up incipiently complex aromas of dark berries and cassis mingled with notions of orange zest, burning embers, pencil lead and iris. Medium to full-bodied, suave and polished, with a layered core of fruit, supple tannins and a long, sapid finish, it will offer a broad drinking window. Drink Date: 2027 - 2045

The 2021 d'Armailhac has turned out beautifully, bursting with attractive aromas of minty cassis and blackberries mingled with notions of pencil shavings and sweet pipe tobacco. Medium to full-bodied, ample and polished, it's supple and seamless, with a fleshy core of fruit and a licorice-inflected finish. En primeur, I compared this to a modern-day version of the estate's immensely charming 1999, and anyone who remembers the 1999 will find that the 2021 delivers just as wide a drinking window. Drink 2026-2041.

The 2021 Cos d'Estournel is one of the denser, more muscular wines of the vintage, wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis, charcoal, sweet cigar wrapper and subtle hints of smoked meats, framed by a touch of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's rich and quite concentrated for the vintage, with a chassis of sweet, generously extracted tannin and a long, lusty finish. Drink 2026-2045.

The wine has perfumed Cabernet Franc aromas with violet, spice and touches of black-fruit tannins. Smoky with tannins, a serious, dense structure and succulent richness, the wine is powerful, impressively rich, ready to drink from 2028.

This medium-bodied wine is fully mature, presenting a harmonious blend of cassis, cranberry, earth, tobacco, cedar, and forest floor notes. While displaying a hint of rusticity in its tannins and subtle green nuances in the red berry finish, it appeals to aficionados favoring a more traditional style. Successful for its vintage, it leans slightly towards the classic and austere end of the style spectrum. Given its current state, there is no need for further aging, making it ready to enjoy now.

"Medium-bodied, forward, soft, classic and floral, the red fruit is sweet, fresh and juicy, with a good sense of purity and refinement." - 92/100, Jeff Leve, The Wine Cellar Insider

"While this wine has density and richness, the structure gives it an ageworthy shape. Its power is tamed and given sophistication, while acidity and black-plum flavors give freshness. The wine will be impressive. Drink from 2024. Roger Voss" - 96/100, Wine Enthusiast

"This perfumed wine shines with black fruits. Against this, the wine's tannins are solid and firm, promising long-term aging. The wine's structure—black fruits against tannins—is a classic for this estate. Drink from 2024. Roger Voss" - 96/100, Wine Enthusiast

1 Bottle Each of the following wines:
Ausone 100 JS / 99 VM / 98+ WA
Cheval Blanc 100 WA / 100 JS / 100 VM 
Haut-Brion 100 JS / 98+ JD / 98 VM / 98 WA
Lafite Rothschild 100 WA / 100 JS / 98 JA 
Margaux 100 WA / 100 JS / 100 JA 
La Mission Haut-Brion 100 JD / 99 WA / 99 JA
Mouton Rothschild 99 JS / 99 AG / 98+ WA 
Petrus 100 JD / 98 VM / 98 JA / 98 DE 
Yquem 98 VM / 97+ WI / 97 JA / 97 DE

The 2016 Palmer is a blend of 47% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot. Opaque garnet-purple colored, it slowly glides out of the glass with compelling notes of blueberry compote, warm cassis and kirsch with emerging hints of violets, cigar box, black tea, sandalwood and Sichuan pepper.

This is a prodigious effort. A blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot and Cabernet Franc (only 37% of the crop qualified for Las Cases), this dense ruby/purple wine has a stunningly pure bouquet of dark fruit, wet rocks, graphite, and subtle background toast/vanillin. Full-bodied, masculine, and very deep and concentrated, this titanic effort is at least 8-10 years away from its plateau of maturity. The Delon family have produced another legend. Anticipated maturity: 2023-2050+.

Spiced sandalwood, white pepper, saffron, cigar box, oyster shell salinity, orange peel, and still juicy blackcurrant and blueberry fruit, even as it heads towards 35 years old. Utterly gorgeous, effortless even, the word beguiling comes out of nowhere. Love this, and provides a glimpse into what this wine can acheive when you are lucky enough to catch it at the right moment. 50% new oak, Michel Delon owner. Harvest September 5 to 25, after a hot dry year.

Harvest took place this year from 23rd September to 8th October. The wine was aged for around 12 months in two-thirds new oak. Medium brick-brown in color, the 1990 Ducru-Beaucaillou is quite evolved, offering notions of incense, tree bark, tilled soil and tobacco with nuances of preserved plums, kirsch, tapenade and leather. Medium to full-bodied, the palate still possesses a good amount of earth-laced savory fruit with a bit of chew to the texture and a stewed tea finish.

Rich and dramatic, the 2019 Valandraud bursts with aromas of berry fruit, plums and licorice, framed by a lavish but far from exaggerated application of creamy new oak. Full-bodied, fleshy and sensual, it's broad and enveloping, its lavish core of fruit framed by ripe, polished tannins and succulent balancing acids.

The 2016 vintage of the Château Cos Labory is adorned with a pretty garnet-red color. Its nose is an expressive bouquet with aromas of blackberry, flower and brioche. On the palate, the attack is dense and round, the tannins are fine and quite supple releasing aromas of red fruits, bramble and strawberry.

The wine has a rich colour with a garnet hue. The nose opens on blackberry notes mingled with refined hints of roasted coffee beans. With airing, noble and delicate notes of graphite, flint and cocoa round off this very attractive array of aromas.

Extremely floral with blackberry and blueberry character plus hints of violets. Full-bodied yet always in check and reserve with fine tannins and bright acidity that goes on for minutes. Limestone undertones. The finish is particularly long this vintage. Super Clerc. Try in 2021.

The second wine of Ausone comes from specific parcels of the vineyard. With 60% of Cabernet Franc in the blend with Merlot, the wine is structured and firm, perfumed and rich. It will age well, drink from 2026. — Roger Voss

Composed of 48.6% Merlot, 43.2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8.2% Cabernet Franc, harvested from 7th to 29th September, the 2020 La Mission Haut-Brion has an alcohol of 14.7%. It needs considerable swirling and coaxing to reveal slowly emerging scents of freshly crushed blackcurrants, Morello cherries, wild blueberries and forest floor, leading to suggestions of violets, baker's chocolate and cardamom with wafts of dusty soil and oolong tea. The medium to full-bodied palate bursts with impactful, fresh red, black and blue fruit layers, supported by impressive freshness and fantastically ripe, fine-grained tannins, finishing very long and fragrant. A stunning expression of this vintage!

A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2020 Haut-Bailly was harvested from the 9th to 25th of September. It has an alcohol of 14.3%. Deep purple-black in colour, it prances out of the glass with naturally beautiful notions of fresh black cherries, violets, mulberries and boysenberries, giving way to hints of redcurrant jelly, star anise, tilled soil and menthol. The medium to full-bodied palate is delicately crafted with velvety/grainy tannins and fantastic freshness framing the perfumed red and black berry layers, finishing on a lingering fragrant-earth note.

The 2020 Cos d'Estournel is composed of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot. The harvest took place September 10– 24, yielding 39 hectoliters per hectare. The alcohol weighs in at 13.46% with a pH of 3.9 and an IPT (total phenolic index) of 80. It is being aged in French oak barrels, 55% new. Deep purple-black in colour, it pops with explosive scents of ripe red and black currants, black cherry preserves and black raspberries, followed by sparks of violets, wild sage, pencil lead and clove oil, with emerging hints of iron ore and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate has amazing elegance and grace contrasted by jaw-dropping energy, featuring a firm frame of finely grained tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with a whole firework display of mineral nuances.

The 2020 L'Eglise Clinet is a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. The Merlot was picked between the 11th and the 14th of September, and the Cabernet Franc was picked on the 16th of September. It has an alcohol of 14.4% and is aging in French oak barrels, 80% new. Displaying and opaque purple-black color, it needs a bit of swirling to reveal a fascinating array of earthy notes —black truffles, charcoal, mossy tree bark and fallen leaves—over a profound core of preserved plums, blackberry preserves and violets, with a waft of tapenade. The medium to full-bodied palate has exquisitely ripe tannins and bold freshness supporting the seductively ripe, black fruit layers, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note.

The captivates your focus with its showy display of flowers, crushed rocks, black, red and blue fruit, espresso and thyme. It takes a bit of coaxing and patience, but there is an incredible level of depth, purity, refinement, and vibrancy at play here on the palate as the wine gently coats your palate with its layers of salt infused, black and dark red fruits. The deep seamless finish crosses the 60-second mark and keeps on going as it continues showing off its essence of minerals of fresh berries. This could be the longest-lived wine of the vintage.